Wild seafood, from sustainable fisheries, is usually best. It’s clean and clean-tasting; it’s firm, not flabby. Organic farmed salmon from Northern Europe is improving, but with wild Alaskan salmon within reach, I don’t bother. One delicious exception: farmed freshwater trout from a farmer who is careful about clean water. Most commercial shrimp causes ecological devastation (in mangrove swamps, for example). Try wild Alaskan spot prawns instead. I’m lucky to live near waters roamed by independent fishermen who bring fresh ocean fish to Greenmarkets; no fishmonger in the city can compare.